A Glimpse of 19th-Century India Through Mary Thorn Carpenter’s Eyes

In 1890, an American writer named Mary Thorn Carpenter, then in her late twenties, decided to spend a winter in India. The journey she took opened her eyes to a land rich in culture, vibrant colors, and diverse people. Her 1892 book, “A Girl’s Winter in India,” offers us a unique perspective on India during a time when the British Empire held significant power over the country.

Born to a politically active family, Mary was the daughter of Jacob B Carpenter, who served during Abraham Lincoln’s time. Even though she came from a liberal background, she still carried some of the colonial biases typical of her era. For instance, her casual observations about “punkahwallahs,” the men tasked with swinging fans for their masters, raise eyebrows today for their colonial undertones.

First Impressions of Bombay

Mary’s journey began in Bombay (now Mumbai), where she was instantly enchanted. She described the city as a “kaleidoscope” of colors and cultures, noting, “Through these streets sweep a variety of types and races.” Her keen eye captured the beauty of people in rich costumes, from Mahomettans with flowing turbans to affluent Chinese in embroidered garments.

One of her favorite spots was the Fort area, filled with impressive government buildings that reminded her of a well-planned English city. Yet, she also took special note of the Parsis, whom she viewed as “the Jews of Bombay,” praising their charitable nature and economic contributions.

During her stay at Watson’s Esplanade Hotel, she recognized the simplicity of her surroundings. The hotel felt more like a barracks than a luxury resort. She described her accommodations as having bare slats for a bed and no carpets—definitely a far cry from what she was used to. But she found comfort in the neat en-suite bathroom.

Life in Malabar Hill

Moving to Malabar Hill, one of the city’s prestigious residential areas, Mary painted a picture of elegance. She wrote of leisurely afternoon drives, where “Europeans and natives” mingled, enjoying the sunlit views of the Arabian Sea. Her detailed imagery continued as she described riding in an ornate carriage with “men in green turbans” clearing the way for her.

Mary was granted rare access to the Tower of Silence, the Parsi site of funerary rites. Witnessing the customs of others left her with awe, although she found some aspects of the locals’ lives dull compared to her own vibrant experiences. Yet, nothing could diminish her excitement at attending a ball at the Royal Yacht Club, where she mingled with European elites in formal attire.

Traveling Beyond Bombay

Mary embarked on a luxurious train ride to Allahabad, noting the “pretty” Indian railway stations that stood out among her travels. She was drawn to the local bazaars and met a Brahmin family, engaging in conversations about the area and its culture. During her visit, she became acquainted with “Miss S.”, an American missionary known among the locals, but found her life to be quite mundane.

The Magh Mela in Allahabad captivated Mary’s attention, described as a grand festival where thousands came to bathe in the Ganges River, believed to wash away sins. She depicted the event as a beautiful spectacle filled with pilgrims from all walks of life.

Arriving in Calcutta

In January 1891, Mary reached Calcutta, just as the city buzzed with excitement over the impending visit of Crown Prince Nicholas of Russia. Her vivid descriptions captured the essence of this historical moment, where she witnessed a blend of East and West in a grand pageant, emphasizing the love that Indian people had for festivities.

However, her admiration for Calcutta was primarily reserved for its people. She recognized the city as a significant educational hub, with a wealth of learned graduates, especially among the Bengali residents. She proclaimed Calcutta to be “the Oxford of India,” reflecting her appreciation for their dedication to education.

During her time in India, Mary also explored other cities like Benares, Agra, and Jaipur. Though she enjoyed luxurious accommodations throughout her travels, she seemed to fall more deeply in love with the rich culture than the comforts of her surroundings.

Conclusion

Mary Thorn Carpenter’s observations give us a glimpse into 19th-century India, revealing both admiration and condescension typical of her time. In her closing reflections, she questioned whether her written words could ever truly convey the “subtle poetry and magic of India.”

As we look back, her journey reminds us of the intertwining stories of cultures and the perspectives they bring to our understanding of history. If you’re inspired to explore India through her eyes, the echoes of her experiences can still resonate with today’s travelers.

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