Journey to the Heart of Darjeeling: Where Cars Fear to Tread

In late May, I found myself in the picturesque Darjeeling district of West Bengal, interviewing tea estate managers and workers. They were sharing their stories about the challenges faced by their world-renowned industry due to climate change and fierce competition. My adventure began early one morning when I joined protesting workers at the Longview tea estate. I assumed the protests would consume most of my day, but to my surprise, they wrapped up by 10 AM. The day still felt young, and I was eager to explore more tea estates.

One of the activists from the Hill Plantation Employees Union suggested that I visit the Ringtong tea estate. There, I could meet Sudha Tamang, an executive committee member and a dedicated tea estate worker. According to Google Maps, the Ringtong estate was about 30 kilometers uphill from Longview, which would take around an hour and a half. I was staying in Siliguri, and although my driver seemed less than excited about the new destination, he confidently talked up his driving skills and we set off.

After a two-hour drive through misty roads, breathtaking views, and dangerously steep paths, we finally arrived near Ringtong. An activist named Sumit was supposed to meet us there. As we approached, he advised us, “The tea estate is quite deep in the interiors. Come to my house first, and then we’ll walk from there.” He sent me a location via WhatsApp, and we headed down a small road. However, the condition of the road quickly deteriorated.

Five minutes into the drive, I was stunned by how steep the road became. My driver began to express his frustrations with “locals in the hills” who invite people to places “where no cars can go.” As we progressed, we encountered a queue of vehicles halted mid-slope. Someone casually explained, “road bana rahe hai” – the road is under construction.

After about half an hour of waiting, during which our car slightly slipped a few times, a mini road-roller came through, clearing the way! We moved onwards, navigating more hairpin bends as I held on for dear life. Reaching the bottom of the slope, the map indicated we needed to go further. However, the road in front of us was filled with deep potholes. The driver sighed, questioning if any cars ever ventured there. Two locals walking by confirmed, “No, no cars do go there.”

As we pressed on, the car’s wheels screeched, and I suddenly smelled smoke. “The engine is overheating; we can’t go further; it’s not safe,” my driver announced. Just then, it started to drizzle. Frustrated but resigned, we decided to turn back up the steep road, racing against gravity. “We’re lucky we didn’t meet a car coming down,” the driver remarked, visibly relieved. Exhausted and hungry, we stopped at a momo stall for lunch.

I called Sumit and asked him to meet us, either on foot or a two-wheeler. Half an hour later, he arrived. “The road isn’t that bad; there are worse ones in these hills,” he said with a grin, while the driver rolled his eyes. Somehow, Sumit convinced our driver to take us “thoda aagey” – a bit further down the same winding road. We made our way down again, with Sumit repeating, “just a little further” until we finally reached the bottom.

But Sumit had more plans. “Leave your car here for safety; drive a little farther to my friend’s backyard,” he suggested. Reluctantly, the driver obliged, and we continued navigating the bumpy road, eventually arriving at our destination. As soon as we parked, the driver reclined his seat to catch some rest. “You should have hired a local driver,” Sumit joked.

For the next hour, Sumit and I walked, first downhill and then uphill, through rain-soaked paths. At one point, I lost my footing and fell, landing unceremoniously on my rear. Thankfully, I was unharmed, and I took a moment to appreciate the view. Sumit took out some churrpi—traditional cheese made from yak milk in the region—and we enjoyed a little snack together. “This may seem tough for outsiders, but we navigate these roads every day,” he explained.

After all the ups and downs, it took nearly six hours to finally reach Tamang’s house. The trek was challenging, but the rewarding interview made the struggle worthwhile.

This trip was a true adventure, showcasing the beauty of Darjeeling while highlighting the resilience and determination of its people. If you’re looking to explore places off the beaten path and delve into the heart of tea growing in India, Darjeeling is an experience you won’t want to miss.

DarjeelingDiaries #TeaJourney #MountainAdventures #ExploreDarjeeling #HillStationLife #TravelDiaries #LandscapeLovers #SustainableTravel #LocalCulture #TeaPlantationAdventure

Original Text – https://scroll.in/article/1089411/backstory-driving-to-where-no-cars-can-go-in-the-darjeeling-mountains?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=public