The Eggless Brownie and the Dilemma of Cultural Purity
Not long ago, while returning to Kolkata from Delhi, I found myself passing through Delhi airport. I spotted a Theobroma outlet—this famous Mumbai-based bakery I had often seen on social media. Kolkata, with its rich array of bakeries, both modern and traditional, was yet to experience Theobroma’s delights. I thought it would be the perfect time to try one of their brownies to accompany my coffee for the flight.
As I approached the kiosk, a lady in front of me was busy ordering an impressive number of pastries and cake slices. Her teenage son voiced his impatience about the boarding time, to which she confidently assured him, “Don’t worry, beta, we’re in business class.” The polite staff packed her numerous goodies, all while she emphasized again and again that everything should be “eggless.”
Finally, when I got to the counter, I ordered my brownie and coffee, but a sudden thought struck me—did her multiple requests affect my order? I asked the server whether my brownie was eggless too. Just as I feared, it was! I quickly requested a regular brownie, explaining that a true brownie should contain eggs. After all, that’s the essence of a brownie.
Delving deeper into the history of brownies later, I found out they originated in Chicago in 1893. Traditionally, brownies include chocolate, flour, eggs, and butter—ingredients that many dessert lovers cherish. For vegetarians, the invention of egg substitutes was certainly a game-changer, making these sweets accessible. Yet, what surprises me is how the eggless version has gained popularity here, even replacing the classic brownie in bakeries across the city.
Just a few years back, even the renowned Taj Bengal hotel had stopped making regular chocolate cakes. Their beautiful eggless cakes looked appealing, but they simply didn’t deliver the same taste. If you asked the chefs why, they mentioned market demand. People preferred eggless options, and that was disheartening for those of us who yearn for a true chocolate experience.
Growing up in a Bengali household, I can’t help but remember how essential non-vegetarian dishes are in our cuisine. In typical Bengali style, I fondly recall the family meals where fish, meat, or at least an egg was a must. Jokes about how other parts of India endure vegetarian meals during festivals are common. The connections between food and culture run deep.
I recall a time when a Bengali passenger near me on a flight expressed sheer disappointment upon discovering there were no non-veg meal options available. Such moments are not just about food; they represent a longing for recognition. Like that passenger, I felt deprived at times—particularly during movie outings when all they offered were vegetarian snacks.
The dialogue around food, particularly desserts like the brownie, isn’t just a matter of taste; it’s also about authenticity. It raises questions about what we accept as “real” or “traditional.” My firm belief that a brownie should include eggs reflects a broader concern for cultural authenticity. However, this takes me to another point about cultural purity.
Cultural purity feels like a contradiction. The philosopher Kwame Anthony Appiah discusses how cultures aren’t static. He refers to Roman playwright Terence, who incorporated elements from earlier Greek plays into his works, calling it “contamination.” Appiah argues for “contaminated cosmopolitanism,” suggesting that rigid boundaries around culture only serve to limit creativity. The Bengali proverb “jata mat tata path” reflects this idea—there are countless ways to view something, and no single opinion holds all the answers.
So, if we apply that understanding to food culture, should we really insist that a brownie can only be authentic if it contains eggs? As the culinary landscape continues to evolve, perhaps it’s time to embrace the diversity of flavors and experiences.
As we navigate our culinary journeys, let’s remember that taste, like culture, is fluid and ever-changing. Whether you love eggless brownies or the classic kind, there’s room for all flavors in this vibrant tapestry of life.
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