Cheese: A Timeless Ingredient from Ancient Recipes

Cheese isn’t just a tasty food; it’s a key part of many recipes throughout history. One of the earliest mentions of cheese comes from the “oldest cookbook in the world,” which is an Akkadian cuneiform tablet now housed at Yale University. This ancient recipe features stewed goat meat, known as kid, with cheese used to enhance its flavor. From there, cheese traveled through history, making its way into kitchens and recipes around the globe.

The Role of Cheese in Ancient Greek Cuisine

Cheese was popular in ancient Greece, too. Imagine a scene from an old Athenian comedy around 300 BC, where a fictional chef humorously claims that cheese has become an outdated ingredient. He quips about how modern chefs have abandoned traditional seasonings like cumin and cheese. However, cheese still had its place, especially when paired with certain types of fish.

A notable gastronomic poet named Archestratus, who hailed from Sicilian Greece, even offered advice on cooking fish. He suggested using cheese with coarser fish, stating, “When Orion sets in the sky, take a baked sarg well sprinkled with cheese.” His advice to treat tough fish with cheese highlights how this ingredient was cherished even in challenging culinary settings.

Beyond fish dishes, the Greeks included cheese in sauces for meat—combining ingredients like honey, cheese, and salt to create flavorful meals. Cheese also appeared in dishes similar to today’s dolmades, known back then as thria.

Cheese in Ancient Roman Cooking

Cheese continued to play a significant role in Roman cuisine. The well-known Roman cookbook, Apicius, reveals that cheese was frequently used in savory recipes. While the evidence is limited, it suggests cheese might have been an ingredient in breads and sweets as well.

One method involved adding cheese to bread dough before baking, while another saw it used in sweetmeats rolled in sesame seeds, enjoyed at lavish banquets during the 4th century BC. The Romans even had a complex cheesecake recipe known as placenta, which required fresh sheep’s cheese.

A Shift in the Middle Ages

However, during the Middle Ages, the use of cheese in cooking dwindled. This might be due to changing perceptions about its health benefits and dietary value. Still, cheese made appearances in some medieval cookbooks. Arab cookbooks sometimes specified Sicilian cheese, particularly mature and hard cheeses, probably meant for grating.

European medieval recipes would mention types of cheese like “fresh” or “dry,” sourced from sheep or goat milk, without detailing their origins. One standout example isn’t a cookbook but a satirical poem describing a grand dish served in a Byzantine monastery. This dish contained multiple varieties of cheese and an assortment of other ingredients, suggesting that cheese was well-traded during that era.

The ingredients list included cabbage, fish, and a mix of cheeses, along with olive oil and various spices—painting a vivid picture of a cheese-rich culinary world in the Byzantine Empire.

Renaissance and Beyond: The Flourishing of Cheese Varieties

As we approached the Renaissance, cookbooks and culinary writings became more detailed and reflective. Chefs began specifying various types of cheese, emphasizing quality and origin. A prime example is Master Chiquart, who insisted on using the finest cheeses, whether it be Craponne or Brie.

In modern times, cheese continues to hold great significance in cooking. From commonplace cottage cheese to luxurious specialty cheeses, the range of cheeses available today reflects a rich culinary heritage. Chefs and home cooks alike can explore and experiment with diverse cheese varieties, making this timeless ingredient even more beloved.

Cheese has played a vibrant role through the ages, blending flavor and tradition in countless recipes. It invites a world of creativity, whether you’re enjoying a simple cheese toast or a gourmet cheese platter.

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